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Nightlife Shots by John Carta |
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Koo: A Forgivable Feast |
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by Jen Ackerly
The Mexican-themed food shack, Tortilla Flats, previously located on East Pembroke Road has finally passed on. The high-end Neo-Japanese fusion food found at Koo Restaurant recently replaced all traces of stale corn chips and brown guacamole. Koo (“sky” in Japanese) is a chain known for successfully heightening its customers to new levels of dining. The restaurant’s variety of oriental foods and established national reputation proves their ability to uphold a Sushi King title; however, even the best of restaurants have flaws.
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John’s Best Pizza |
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New Place, Old World Ingredients by Maggie Lyon
John’s Best Pizza originated in New York City in the late 1960s.
Recognizing pizza and Neapolitan food as a fun and highly profitable
business venture, they first opened their doors to the public in the
Bronx and were welcomed with open arms. Soon thereafter the business
spread with restaurants popping up in and around the city. At its peak
John’s Best had seven popular pizzerias. Now, after some of John’s
Best Pizzas were bought and sold, four still remain in the city.
Eventually John’s spread north and found itself in a plaza in
Brookfield. That’s when Libero Pugliese took over the business. |
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New York Style in Bethel |
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Per Tutti Family Restaurant and Pizza:
by Maggie Lyon
In a southern Connecticut market, so saturated with Italian restaurants, some may wonder “what makes the next one so different?” This skepticism can often get the best of you. Most of these pop-up Italian joints aren’t worth their salt. Relatively inexpensive to open and operate, pizza places are especially easy to come by because, hey, who doesn’t like pizza? And while they’re correct in some regard, the number of pizza lovers does not equate itself with pizza makers. But there are diamonds in the rough. People who know the deal, who know what a New York slice is like, and who, once settled, will be blowing the competition away with a feather.
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High-Flying Discs of Dough at Famous Joe's Pizzeria |
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by Stephanie Lyons Schultz
 It’s a bird! It’s a plane! No…it’s…flying pizza dough?!? Most nights if you happen down into CityCenter Danbury at the corner of White and Ives Streets you may just catch a wild show. Joe Carlucci of Famous Joe’s Pizzeria and world champion pizza acrobat is a master at dough throwing. As a treat to passersby, he’ll toss discs in the air, doing tricks like “across the shoulders” or “through the legs.” Last year Carlucci even made it into the Guinness Book of World Records on TV’s the Food Network Pizza Challenge for the highest pizza base toss (a.k.a. the dough) reaching 21 feet, 5 inches.
But it’s not only about the crackerjack stunts. Carlucci, with co-owner Chris Bauso, have teamed up to bring the best pizza, made with only hand-picked, premium ingredients, to aficionados in Danbury and beyond. Their New York style pizzas as well as their multitude of Italian specialties are as expertly presented as Carlucci’s acrobatics.
Food is a passion for both partners. Carlucci and Bauso have been involved with the industry practically since birth. Carlucci started cooking at about age 14 or 15; Bauso when he was 13. Their recent collaboration came through a meeting of like minds. The duo worked with Bruno DiFabio, owner of a number of Italian and pizza restaurants in Connecticut and New York. DiFabio has a successful history of starting up new places and did the same with Famous Joe’s.
You know they are creating a great product. Twice a week they go early in the morning to Bronx wholesale markets to select only the best and freshest, whether it is their vegetables, herbs, fruits or meats. Bauso knows fresh. He first owned and is now a silent partner of the Morris Park Meat Market. He also shops the Hunts Point Market at the crack of dawn to ensure he procures the best of everything for the restaurant.
These guys are, according to Bauso, “hands-on,” and they mean it in every way. Walk through the door and you’ll see them doing everything from tossing pizza, to preparing the diverse menu offerings, answering phones, manning the register, and chatting up customers. The main difference between the two owners is Carlucci’s affinity for showmanship. And it is not only hurling pizza dough into the stratosphere that he loves. He has also competed in pizza making. He and his team, the World Pizza Champions, have traveled internationally to show off their skills as master pizza makers. Among Carlucci’s highest honors was in March of this year at the Pizza Olympics in Salsomaggiore, Italy. He took 5th out of 400 for “Pizza in Teglia” (pizza made in a pan). He won on taste and presentation—nothing to sneeze at in the heart of pizza land. In September, Carlucci will again compete for best pizza at Atlantic City’s Northeast Pizza Show.
While Bauso doesn’t get involved with the competitions and shows, he supports Carlucci and often goes along for the ride, taking in the action. There is also much to be gained, as the shows and expos introduce the two to things like new products, equipment, and cooking techniques.
 So what does Carlucci do when not playing with pizza? “Pizza is my life,” he said. “I read about pizza. I eat other guys’ pizza. I find out pizza secrets.” He truly is all about the pizza and honing his craft. Another biggie for Carlucci is doing pizza-throwing demonstrations. He tosses everywhere—like on the set of “Everybody Loves Raymond,” on the “Rachael Ray Show,” and on ESPN’s “Cold Pizza.” He also goes to schools to toss, and to teach kids how to make pizza and about teamwork. He offers talks about the importance of studying, not giving up, and following their dreams. Who better to bring the message home than a regular guy who both creates and throws every kid’s favorite food?
His words and actions resonated with nephew Joseph Redendo, who last December wrote about his uncle for a school assignment. A copy hanging in the restaurant reads: “If I was to create a new national holiday for the United States I would create a day to honor my uncle Joe…He gives pizza to the homeless who live on the street…he teaches children how to toss pizza for free…(and) because he is in the Guinness Book of World Records…”
Bauso’s life is a bit more diverse, if you will. He is father to two young boys, 8½-year-old Christopher and 6½-year-old Michael. The boys love that their dad makes pizza. Christopher, who is autistic, loves to play with the dough…maybe even connects with it. “I am educated through him,” Bauso said. “I look at the world very differently because of him.” Bauso does everything for his children. And it is with this in mind that he, with Carlucci, has begun what is already a successfully thriving business.
Although there are three small tables in the restaurant, it is primarily for take-out and delivery. The deluge from recent advertising and coupon-mailers has nearly overwhelmed the co-owners. But Bauso said they are still “young” and are “building their business,” as they continue to improve operations. The incredibly positive response to their food may have slowed their preparation and delivery time somewhat, but it hasn’t slowed their determination as they work to keep up with demand.
So whether you are craving a fantastic New York style pizza, a calzone or one of their specialty pastas, come by and say hello to Carlucci and Bauso. While you’re there, watch out—you may be lucky enough to see some high-flying discs of dough pass overhead.
Famous Joe’s is located at 34 White Street, Danbury, CT, (203) 778-JOES. |
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The Marbledale Pub |
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by Jaime Blantin
We live in a world where life has become fast paced. We all want everything now. However, what we don’t realize until we sit down and do it is that waiting can be magic, and magic can be food. The Marbledale Pub on Rte. 202 in New Milford has just that tantalizing tease of sitting and waiting for something a little unexpected. Chef Dave Tucker says, “new patrons walk in and expect burgers but get the unexpected.” The Pub has a menu steeped in traditional American food. It is all really good food but it’s the weekend specials that Tucker really works his magic on. “I cook the classics but I’m doing them right,” Tucker announces. He is doing them right…I tasted it!  I started off my everlasting meal with non-dairy potato leek soup. Yes, I know it sounds crazy, no dairy; how can it possibly be any good? I like as much dairy as I can work into my day. But this was the best soup I’ve ever slurped. It has a clean, light flavor that doesn’t become all bogged down by cream. I actually think I licked the bowl. Shortly after, Mark, the friendly head server, flew around the corner with a heaping spinach salad. This was no ordinary spinach salad. First off, I say heaping because the portions at the pub are so great. You get a lot of really delicious food. The salad was topped with a warm balsamic vinaigrette, with balsamic-glazed red onions, and the yummiest apple-smoked bacon, and then sprinkled with crumbled gorgonzola cheese. I would have, on a normal day, called it quits but everything was so good I couldn’t say no to more food. Anyone for a sausage and mushroom ragu served over creamy herb polenta? I wanted another one of these. This was by far, my favorite dish of the afternoon, and I have to say probably of all the meals I’ve ever tasted and written about. The ragu had that perfect combination of sweet and spicy. The mushrooms soaked up that distinct marsala-wine flavor, the sausage had just the right kick of spice, and the polenta was creamy and perfect; absolutely perfect. I was ready to pack it in, throw in the towel, when just as I was about to go into that sweet state of food-induced coma, Mark popped osso-bucco right under my nose. I think by now you can guess that this was going to be no ordinary osso-bucco, Tucker served it with saffron-scented orzo and root vegetables. This was combination that I would never have put together in my own little brain, but one that worked out to be just right… magic. My top button popped open as I dove into an apple puff pastry purse made with caramel and vanilla served with a large dose of vanilla ice cream. This is where I called it quits. The Pub sits very modestly along Rte. 202. It’s a meager little building that simply overlooks the road and sits back on a little hill with a brook running just below it. As I walked in I was immediately struck by the fact that this one restaurant has been perched in this spot for quite sometime, some thirty years in fact. This is an amazing feat itself in the restaurant industry. It’s obviously the great food and service that people get at the pub that keep them coming back. Bar manager John Wilson says it’s the loyalty of the town and the idea that the owners and chef keep it in mind to give the community something good and to keep giving them something good. Tucker took over the kitchen just eight months ago and has made a tremendous impact on the restaurant. Fresh food is his motto and you can see and taste it in the food. I don’t think you can go wrong with a self-taught chef that has made it through the school of hot kitchens and hard work. I think Tucker said it best when he said, “I’m not trying to change the world with my food, I’m just trying to make people smile.” I walked out smiling and will return smiling. Excellent food, really great magic... |
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