West Redding’s Clemens Restaurant is what is often called “a destination restaurant”. It has to be sought out , and owner/proprietor Ewa Ojarovska likes it that way.

“Our guests go out of their way and make an effort to dine with us,” says Ojarovska. “I want to make sure they have a wonderful meal and a wonderful experience.”

Since 2004, Ojarovska and Executive Chef Grayson Sherman have been meeting, greeting and delighting guests with a unique menu of gourmet appetizers, soups, entrees, desserts, gelatos, sorbets and specialty cocktails that change with the month and season. Clemens grows many of its own herbs, fruits and vegetables on-site. In summer, you won’t find fresher peaches, raspberries and figs in any restaurant. Additionally, the restaurant bakes all its breads, rolls and even its crackers from scratch on the premises.

Clemens’ ambience is elegant and slightly Old World, filtered through contemporary New York sensibilities. The lounge, which seats up to 32, is a warm and cozy burgundy hue, accented by hand-blown custom lighting fixtures and craftsman-built hardwood bar and trim. Diners may enjoy a meal at the bar or the surrounding tables or simply sip a cocktail on its twin sofas. The 70-seat main room is a light and airy space, surrounded by French doors which open to terraces for outdoor dining in warm weather. Original oil paintings celebrating the foods and fruits of the four seasons decorate the walls.

Upstairs, a spacious yet intimate “library” can accommodate 50 guests and is available for private parties. Catered parties (Clemens hosts several such events throughout the year) come naturally to Ojarovska. She began her career as Assistant to the Executive Chef at New York’s Plaza Hotel and has worked at fine hotels and country clubs in restaurant, banquet sales, catering and special events management ever since. In addition to Clemens, Ojarovska creates elaborate, themed customer events for off-site parties.

While Clemens’ menu changes monthly, a few items have become fixed mainstays. Pate with green tomato relish ($11), French onion soup and corn & crab chowder ($9 each) are always on the bill of fare and deservedly so. In “casual fare”, the half rack of baby back ribs in apple cider barbecue sauce ($13) is a long-time Clemens favorite. Barbecued to a light crust with a sweet-tangy-spicy sauce and fall-off-the-bone tender, they are unlike any ribs one can find in the area. 

In dinner entrées, one will always find a salmon dish, Maryland crab cakes and tender beef, be it filet mignon with rich Marsala sauce, or New York strip steak with spicy peppercorn sauce. To conclude the meal, there will always be a delicate crème brule with homemade butter cookies or a chocolate bombe, a rich “molten” chocolate cake.

To set the mood before dinner, one can begin with a signature Clementini, a gin or vodka martini infused with a little something extra. Among the cocktail creations are the “Caramel Apple”, “Chocolatini”, “Ruby Grapefuitini” and the tequila “Mysterious Stranger”.

Clemens’ January menu opened with a spectacular avocado guacamole egg roll appetizer. A mango jalapeno ginger dipping sauce was added to the crunchy, sweet roll, adding zing and spreading layers of textures and flavors across the palette. Entrée standouts were the grilled breast of Magret duck, stuffed with rosemary garlic pesto and drizzled with cabernet au jus. Rich and flavorful, the pesto added just enough bite while the wine au jus mellowed the dish with a touch of warm sweetness. Another fine entrée was the grilled sea scallops. The naturally sweet flavor of the scallops melded with just the lightest touch of salt from its prosciutto wrap. To layer in a touch of citrus before grilling, Chef Grayson drizzled the scallops with a sherry orange demi glaze...wonderful.

Capping the meal was a marvelous “sticky toffee (bread) pudding” that was filled with all sorts of sweet caramel gooiness and topped with ice cream. It comes with enough calories for two. 

Clemens is a gourmet destination restaurant. It is also an expense-account restaurant, but one at which a guest doesn’t need a fat expense account. Casual fare entrees and full dinners begin modestly at $11 and $26 respectively. Appetizers typically run between $9 and $12 and desserts between $8 and $9.

How did Clemens, the restaurant, arrive at its identity as a culinary homage to Clemens, the writer? History. Samuel Clemens disembarked for his new Redding home at the train station directly in front of the restaurant. If his namesake restaurant were standing when he arrived in 1908, Mark Twain’s byline would probably be at the top of this review; the food is that good.
 
Clemens is located at 4 Long Ridge Road, West Redding, Connecticut and is open for dinner 5 – 9pm Wednesday and Thursday and 5 – 10:30pm Friday and Saturday. Reservations and private parties can be arranged by calling 203-938-8300. Directions, information and current menu can be found at ClemensRestaurant.com.